What is a yoke in sewing pants?

Member since 5/23/18 Posts: 30

Body Type:

Posted on: 7/23/18 9:32 AM ET

Hi there! I'm still learning, so I'll post here a lot, so I'm sorry if you see me asking lots of questions here! I made my first set of pants the other day and am working on making my second. I really love making pants! My question is this: When it is appropriate to draft a yoke onto your pants pattern or when to leave it out? So sources say it provides structure for the garment, others say the back yoke is just to help contour the butt. How integral are yokes to a pattern and why are they there?

Thank you!

Nancy K

Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 13915

Body Type:

Posted on: 7/23/18 9:55 AM ET

You haven't said why you want to draft a yoke. It's harder to fit than darts especially if you have a small waist in comparison to your hip. I'd stick with darts for the time being. Sew a few pairs of pants and work on getting a great fit first.------

www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Member since 5/23/18 Posts: 30

Body Type:

Posted on: 7/23/18 10:00 AM ET

I'm working with one of the Amazing Fit patterns by Simplicity. There are no darts (there are front and back seams�which I assume serve the same function as darts?), but also no yoke, but it says I can use a heavy fabric like denim, but I've...actually never seen a denim pattern without a yoke. I just fear the pants might not hold up correctly without one (is that a silly thing to ponder)? I guess that's why I'm asking whether it's necessary to draft one or not! (The first pattern I made had one, these guys don't)

ALurker

Member since 1/15/17 Posts: 1827

Posted on: 7/23/18 10:20 AM ET

It may be just me but if I make yokes, I make them for nothing else than design reasons.

For 2019 committed to: - Continue using what I have (fabric, notions, patterns, books, mags, tips & tricks etc.). - Strive to re-use 52 items from my upcycle cupboard. - Continue purchasing fabric and patterns mindfully. - Continue tracking my fabric stash. - Resume tracking my pattern stash. - Continue with RTW fast. Exceptions: bras, socks, panty hoses, shoes. Plus anything that coincidentally crosses my way and is a truly mindful purchase. - Prioritize replacing some plain wardrobe basics (pillars or backbones) that are close or past their lifespan over adding fun, more exciting garments that I, strictly speaking, do not need (nice-to-haves). 2018 Summary: - Used successfully what I had and bought mindfully, i.e. fabrics. - Got a very good grip on my stash (measured and catalogued almost all of it) but failed to sew 10% down (got 9.28% done). - Did not meet goal to make 50 projects (new, finish or re-use UFOs, upcycle, mend, repair).

- Key take away for 2019: Set fewer number-specific goals. My sewing should be driven by needs and love, not by achieving numbers.

kayl

Member since 3/24/04 Posts: 24217

Posted on: 7/23/18 10:22 AM ET

The yoke is the equivalent of darts, and the pattern for a yoke is constructed by drawing in the design line separating the yoke from the lower back, and closing the back darts. It has nothing to do with sturdy, just design. And yes, there are patterns intended for denim, without a back yoke.

Member since 5/23/18 Posts: 30

Body Type:

Posted on: 7/23/18 10:29 AM ET

These answer my questions! Thank you! :)

Nancy K

Member since 12/28/04 Posts: 13915

Body Type:

Posted on: 7/23/18 4:17 PM ET

Yes, the seams serve as darts. If you look at the seams at the waist they will have negative space that is dart shaped. Denim is tough, the yoke is strictly a design feature. The biggest issue in fitting heavy weight denim is that it has no drape. Jeans have a very close fitting crotch, which is not usually the case in pants. That would create fitting issues at the crotch. ------

www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it.