When was modesty greatly valued? victorian era renaissance age of extravagance middle ages

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During the 1460s France rivaled Burgundy as the greatest center of fashion in northern Europe, but that was no thanks to the new King, Louis XI, who succeeded his father Charles VII in 1461. The courtier and chronicler Philip de Commines complained that Louis dressed “as badly as could be, with a wretched hat different from everyone else’s, with a leaden pilgrim’s hat on it” (quoted by Evans 59), at a time when rulers adorned their hats with jewels (Vaughan 168). Nor was his Queen, Charlotte of Savoy, able to pursue fashion in a public way, since Louis kept her largely confined to the château of Amboise and preoccupied with the education of her daughters (Jansen, 2-3). Meanwhile, Jeanne de Laval, a Breton noblewoman who became the Duchess of Anjou and of Lorraine and Countess of Provence after her marriage in 1454, traveled throughout France holding court with her husband, René I of Anjou, who had retained a royal title from his brief tenure as King of Naples and Sicily.

During this decade “le roi René” and his Queen lived variously in the Loire valley and in Provençe and were great patrons of the arts, especially the art of the book. One of the books made for him in this decade, Le livre des Tournois, is famous for its large miniature paintings in a sophisticated style (Fig. 1 / Evans 61-62). Jeanne appears at the head of her ladies-in-waiting, in a blue dress trimmed with ermine that has all the features of this decade’s fashion. The V-neckline is not only very low but also very wide, causing the partlet to be wider as well. The sleeves of the dress have long flaring cuffs, turned down to cover most of the hand. The ermine trimming that denotes royalty appears again in a wide band at the hem. The dress has a wide belt and a very long train. Although she has ladies-in-waiting to assist, Queen Jeanne lifts the excess length of her dress in front, revealing the pointy toes of her black shoes. Another accessory to note is the necklace of heavy gold links. Seen through the folded linen veils, her high turret is golden also. Although she lived until almost the end of the century, an alabaster sculpture from Jeanne de Laval’s tomb, originally in Aix-en-Provençe and now in the Musée du Moyen-Age in Paris, shows her dressed in the fashions of this decade, wearing a similar dress, necklace, and headdress (Fig. 2).